Places to Go

I've been wanting to take my car to an open track day at one of the relatively close tracks, most likely GingerMan Raceway in South Haven, MI, Grattan Raceway in Belding, MI, or Waterford Hills Road Racing near where I work.

I took the two-day Mid-Ohio Acura High Performance and Acura Advanced High Performance driving courses a few years back, and, combined with discovering the fun of racing simulators for my PC and PS3, I have had the desire to take my car to open track days. However, I do not have the desire to smash my one-and-only daily driver at the track, and have to get a rental while the car is fixed. I also want to be able to (potentially) heavily modify my car without having to be as concerned about reliability on a day-to-day basis (something I encountered with my 2001 Focus ZX3).

So, that left me with the realization that I needed a third car (including the 2005 Honda Odyssey my wife drives) to be my "toy;" a sports car for the occasional fun drive, but also to take to the track. I still don't want to smash it up, but at least if I do, I can still get to work.

That car is the 2009 Mazda RX-8 Grand Touring in Sparkling Black Mica:

For more photos, go to my RX-8 Gallery.

Originally, my top choice was the RX-8 R3, but after sitting in the Recaro driver's seat, I don't think I would be comfortable in them for more than 30 minutes or so. I really like the body kit and wheels of the R3, but there's no point in buying a car with very nice and very expensive Recaro seats if they kill my butt and upper legs.

I've been in love with the RX-8 since it was first released. I like the fact that it's relatively light for a car in it's class (between about 3064 and 3100 lbs. for my GT). I love the way it looks, inside and out, and it's one of the best steering and handling cars money can buy. The 1.3L RENESIS Wankel rotary engine (see also Rotary Engine Illustrated) revs to 9000 RPM and is mounted low in the engine bay for a lower center of gravity. It is also mounted behind the front wheels, making the RX-8 a (front) mid-engine car, which is one of the reasons it handles so well. The RENESIS engine in the RX-8 is mounted 40mm lower and 60mm farther back than the rotary engine in the third (and last) generation RX-7. The RX-8 isn't all that fast in a straight line, but there aren't many cars that will keep up with it in twisty roads. Although the rotary doesn't make much torque at the flywheel (which is mitigated to some degree by the short gear ratios), I love the fact that it's unique to modern cars. The way it smoothly makes more power all the way to 9000 RPM is intoxicating!

The RX-8 has a sophisticated suspension design, utilizing a forged aluminum front double-wishbone suspension (top arm is squeeze-cast or molten-forged; bottom is traditionally forged) and rear multi-link suspension with dual lateral links and trailing arms (new for 2009). The front and rear dampers are high quality mono-tubes. Most cars at this price range use less-expensive and less track-worthy twin-tube dampers. The RX-8 has an 8-year/100,000 mile powertrain warranty (because Mazda is trying to get people over the misconception that rotary engines are by their nature unreliable). The RX-8 has a carbon fiber reinforced plastic (CFRP) drive shaft that is 40% lighter than a steel one would be, and is simpler in design, not requiring two separate segments as would be the case with a steel drive shaft. It has a titanium-infused steel roof and roof pillars (for strength and weight reduction) and aluminum hood, rear doors, and trunk lid.

The 2009 RX-8 has several improvements over the previous models. It has improved body rigidity. The rear suspension geometry has been modified for even better handling. Driveshaft rigidity has been improved. It has a new 6-speed manual transmission based on the one from the MX-5 Miata, which has a different final gear ratio (4.777 instead of 4.444), and is supposed to be even smoother and quieter than the Aisan manual transmission it replaces. The transmission has carbon-coated synchronizers for all gears (originally it was only gears 1 through 4, as with the new Miata, but I experienced the infamous 2009 5th and 6th gear grinding, which was fixed by the dealer with the installation of carbon coated 5th and 6th gear synchronizers). It also has many, many improvements designed to improve reliability and handling. Check out these threads that list the changes:

What Changed in Series II RX-8s over S1
Mechanical Changes on RX-8 Series I to II

I love how people react to my RX-8 when they see me driving it. Kids and adults alike frequently go nuts about the car. In only the few times I've driven the car, I've had several adults and several kids in passing cars wave, stare, and make all sorts of crazy gestures and rapid bobbing of their heads. During the early fall of 2010 I was driving slowly coming up to a construction zone before I-69 went down to one lane. A hot woman in the passenger seat of a red first-gen Mazda6 put up a hand-written sign against her window asking if she could have sex with my car! That made my day! Of course, I nodded "Yes." It's impressive to know that a car that's been out this long still draws this much attention. You don't see too many RX-8s on the roads around Michigan. During the warm months, I see at least a couple of C6 Corvettes on every commute to and from work. I might have as many RX-8 sightings in a two week period.

The forums I hang out on for RX-8 stuff are
rx8club.com
Rotary Car Club
rx8web.com
mazdaforums.com
nopistons.com

CURRENT MODS, Short Version

• Instead of the natural 5W20 oil recommended by Mazda, I use Royal Purple 5W30 full synthetic oil with Synerlec.
• I am adding about 5 oz. of Idemitsu Racing Rotary Oil per full tank fillup of gasoline.
• Axis Circuit forged (by Rays Engineering) wheels in bronze.
• Red Line synthetic MT-90 75W90 GL-4 oil in the transmission and 75W90 GL-5 gear oil installed in the limited-slip differential.
• Racing Beat oil cooler protective screens
• A can of Sea Foam Motor Treatment in a full tank of gas around the time of every oil change (started in spring, 2011).
• K&N drop-in air filter for the OEM air filter box.
• Racing Beat front and rear anti-roll (sway) bars and front end links.

CURRENT MODS

• Not so much a performance modification, but definitely a change from what Mazda recommends, I purchased a case of Royal Purple 5W30 full synthetic oil with Synerlec. Mazda recommends 5W20, but this is because you might see a small fuel efficiency improvement with the lighter, thinner 5W20 oil (all else being equal), and they also recommend you stick with full mineral-based oil (natural, not synthetic). However, all of the rotary engine experts, including Racing Beat, agree that 5W30 is better for long term health of rotary engines. In addition, only certain synthetic oils are a problem. Royal Purple is definitely safe in rotaries, as discussed by many rotary experts (and Royal Purple's website). I noticed no change in fuel efficiency after the switch. Crippen Mazda's service manager has agreed that this oil choice is better, and will allows me to bring in the Royal Purple for use in oil changes performed at the dealer shop. I'm a firm believer in taking cars to reputable dealers for routine oil changes if you're not a mechanic type, and I'm not. Dealers know the car better than your typical corner fast lube place, and I've read too many stories of shady fast lube shops. The dealer will know what parts need lubrication and know any special techniques or tools that are better or necessary for certain models, etc. This way I can have the best of both worlds: the best oil for this engine; and full records of dealer oil changes so I can be sure to keep my 8 year/100,000 mile powertrain warranty.
• Another "change" I have made based on considerably research is that I have been adding about 5 oz. of Idemitsu Racing Rotary Oil per full tank fillup of gasoline. This is probably not necessary with the third oil injector nozzle in the Series II (2009+) RX-8, but it can't hurt, either. It can only provide more lubrication to the engine seals and prolong the engine life. There are some who believe it may cause earlier catalytic converter failure, but even if that's true, catalytic converters are a lot less expensive then engines. I also only use the best premium grade gasolines, preferably Shell gas, but when I can't find a Shell station, I will use other high grade brands such as BP, Marathon, or Mobile.
• My first real change was a set of aftermarket wheels wide enough to fit 255 mm wide tires but also lighter. I have Axis Circuit wheels in bronze. They only came in 18x8.5" with a 45 mm offset. This results in pushing the wheels/tires out by 1.1 cm compared to OEM, which should be good both for handling and also for looks (the OEM rear wheels have too much fender overhang). These wheels are forged and made by Rays Engineering, and incredibly inexpensive for such wheels at $420 each. They weigh only 16.7 lbs. each, about 5 lbs. lighter than each OEM wheel. I bought them from Discount Tire, and the OEM tires (P225/45R-18) are on the wheels (and will be until I wear them out). When it's time to replace the tires, I will research what tires I want in P255/40R-18. I want to go with a very sticky tire, as this is my recreational vehicle, not a daily driver. Right now I plan on either the Hanook Ventus V12 evo or the brand new Michelin Pilot Super Sport. Michelin as a brand make the best tires in the world. The Hankooks received a great review in a Car & Driver comparison a while back, and they weigh less than most of their competing tires. Michelin also claims that the Pilot Super Sports weigh less, and they sound really impressive. The Hankooks are only about $170 each, while the Michelins are about $270 each (and I would have to get them in P245/40R-18 right now). That's a big difference in price, but the Michelins are probably better, and might even outlast the Hankooks.
• In my research I found it was recommended to change the transmission oil after the first 6,000 miles or so. Red Line synthetic oil makes just about the best transmission and gear oils (I had some of their gear oil in my Mazda3). I purchased and had installed Red Line MT-90 75W90 GL-4 oil in the transmission and 75W90 GL-5 gear oil installed in the limited-slip differential.
• My son and I installed Racing Beat oil cooler protective screens on August 28, 2010. My oil cooler heat exchanger fins were taking a beating, and from what I've read, this is a big deal, especially if the car is going to be tracked. The radiator protective screen is not necessary on newer RX-8s (apparently 2005 and up).
• Starting in 2011 I started using Sea Foam Motor Treatment. I'm using 1 can of Sea Foam in a full tank of gas at the time of oil changes
• I installed a K&N drop-in air filter for the OEM air filter box. This will add a couple of horsepower and never need replacing. I'll just have to clean and oil it every year or two.
• Starting with the second season of driving my RX-8, I came to the definite conclusion that the car does not have the kind of lateral grip that my modified Mazda3 had (with KONI Sport dampers, Racing Beat springs, and Progress rear anti-roll bar). It desperately needed more roll resistance (and wider, stickier tires, but that's coming). I ordered Racing Beat's (thicker than OEM) front and rear hollow anti-roll bars with the front OEM replacement end links, purchased from Good-Win-Racing on February 23, 2011. They were installed on Friday, April 22 by Sharp's Supply. The car is so much more fun to drive, with quicker steering response and far less body roll.
• I use the Torque application, getting OBDII data via an OBDII-to-Bluetooth adapter. I use this for additional engine information from the car, especially coolant temperature. Heat control is especially important with rotary powered cars, and I want this data available when I take the car to the track.

PLANNED MODS